https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3183-832X
ABSTRACT
Traditional figured Jamdani muslin of West Bengal is woven by skilled weaver artisans using “Discontinuous Inter-Turning” (DIT) extra weft in the plain shed without using any figuring shedding device like jala/adai or jacquard. With their imagination, the weaver selects the number of ends according to the figure formation, inserts the weft, and turns it so that the weft does not form any floats in the weft-turning places. It is noted that for weaving Jamdani, when the jacquard is used with cards, punched from regular stepping figured graph of few motifs forms, it results in long floats at few weft turnings places. This research aims to develop a special stepping (SS) jacquard graphing technique using computer-aided graphing tools for weaving figured Jamdani fabric using jacquard without any floats in the weft-turning places similar to the manual selection. The study started by analyzing the interlacing diagram of the figure woven with the DIT method without forming any floats. The principle involved in the SS graphing is derived from the analysis. The procedures followed in jacquard graph editing software for preparing the SS graphing are evolved. The correctness of the graphing technique is checked by weaving the sample. It is determined that the SS graphing is advantageous for weaving figured Jamdani fabric with all the motif forms with the DIT method without forming any floats in the extra weft-turning places. Through this, it is possible to weave contemporary and fashionable loom-made reversible figured Jamdani garments like dupattas, scarf, shawls, and half sarees woven with subdued motifs in plain weave for the niche market, apart from weaving the traditional Jamdani sarees.
