It has proven difficult to describe the kinematics in irregular waves satisfactorily, in particular for the surface zone in broad-banded waves. A Lagrangian approach offers distinct advantages in this respect, eliminating the need for extrapolation of solutions or “stretching” of coordinates. This paper presents a model of irregular waves based on superposition of linear Lagrangian wave components, using an iterative method to obtain the Eulerian solution. This approach yields theoretically consistent results everywhere in the waves, and comparisons with wave flume measurements show good agreement. Also, the linear Lagrangian model includes wave interactions that would be nonlinear in an Eulerian formulation.
A Lagrangian Model for Irregular Waves and Wave Kinematics
Contributed by the OOAE Division for publication in the JOURNAL OF OFFSHORE MECHANICS AND ARCTIC ENGINEERING. Manuscript received July 2001; final revision, April 2002. Associate Editor: K. Thiagarajan.
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Gjøsund, S. H. (April 16, 2003). "A Lagrangian Model for Irregular Waves and Wave Kinematics ." ASME. J. Offshore Mech. Arct. Eng. May 2003; 125(2): 94–102. https://doi.org/10.1115/1.1554702
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