Abstract
Freak waves, waves significantly higher than neighboring waves, are a serious threat to ships and marine infrastructure. Despite significant refinement of operational wave models and recent progress in studying the theoretical foundations of such extreme events, the emergence of these events remains unpredictable. In this work, the authors propose a data-driven wave forecasting approach by combining the essence of common wave models, rapid oscillations, and slowly changing spectrum with data-driven techniques such as recurrent neural networks. A judicious minimization procedure is developed, wherein the sea surface elevation is first decomposed into harmonic functions with varying amplitudes. Then, the amplitude variations are forecasted by fitting universal, black-box models. This approach, which can be used to forecast wave crests and troughs in real time, is tested on available buoy data. Overall, the developed models and fitting strategies outperform simple benchmarks indicating the approach’s potential for operational, real-time wave forecasting.