Numerical Simulation of Two-Dimensional Free-Surface Flow and Wave Transformation Over Constant-Slope Bottom Topography

A numerical model is presented for the simulation of the two-dimensional, inviscid, free-surface flow developing by the propagation and breaking of water waves over a flat bottom of steep slope. The simulation is based on the numerical solution of the unsteady, two-dimensional, Euler equations subject to the fully-nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions, the non-penetration condition at the bottom and appropriate inflow and outflow conditions. A boundary-fitted transformation, which includes both the time-dependent free surface and the arbitrary bottom shape, is applied. For the numerical solution of the Euler equations, a two-stage fractional time-step method is employed for the temporal discretization, while a hybrid scheme is used for the spatial discretization. Finite differences are used in the streamwise direction and a pseudo-spectral method in the vertical direction. An absorption zone is placed at the outflow region in order to minimize wave reflection by the outflow boundary. Wave breaking is modeled by a surface roller breaking model, which modifies the dynamic free-surface condition. The simulation results are in very good agreement with available experimental results for the wave propagation and breaking over bottom with slope 1:35. Results, from the simulations over bottom with steeper slopes of 1:15 and 1:10, which generate strong spilling and mild plunging breakers, respectively, are also in very good agreement with available predictions for the breaking depth and wave height. In all cases, a vortex is formed under the breaking wave front and convected in the surf zone.